![]() ![]() The car is now as ergonomic as you can expect a Willys to be and you can actually see out of the side window rather than trying to see out of the rear roof quarter blind spot. I now have legroom and can run creature comforts all in the confines of the stock body, while retaining the stock rear parcel shelf behind the seats. Steering column had been relocated for a much better driving position. The recessed firewall has been replaced with an original stock firewall and engine and trans have been moved 3" forward. The cross flow radiator has been relocated and canted forward at the bottom with drop out support member. The intercooler is gone, normally aspirated 32V DZ302 engine replacing the blown 383. Dual 11" puller electric fans with shrouds, all air directed through radiator. With a Willys no a lot of air flow through grill, but no problem now. I changes water pump pulley to over drive water pumpĪlso got a MicroTemp EXP Pistol Grip Laser Target Digital Temperature Gun. This is the hottest spot for it can raise gauge 10 to 20 degrees. On my BB I was using sender in passenger head. Since you didnÂt give much info IÂll list other areas to look at for over heating.Ä«est to use puller fan if ele. Was told it can be up to 5% and still work. After system was filled had it checked and was less then 1% water. I drained system as well as pulled plugs and drained block. Decided to switch to Evans but also made a few other changes. BB Chevy (468), 8:71 Blower, fuel injected.Ĭalled Evans as well as looked over their web site. I also had an over heating problem in my 41 Willys. So is anybody running it and have long term experience with it? It also allows for radiator placement pretty much anywhere there is sufficient airflow and reduces the amount of fan usage/electric load by running cooler, as well as improving fuel economy.įor those of you not familiar with it you can read up here: The initial investment is spendy, but it seems like a win win situation from there on. It eliminates the need to run sacrificial anodes to protect aluminum components, eliminates scale build up, reduces stress/pressure on the radiator by running a non pressurized radiator cap and the coolant never needs replacing or topping up in a leak free system. The TDI also uses a liquid cooled EGR, increasing temps of the coolant can lead to an increase in EGR temps reducing intake charge air density negating any gains that you would have found.Is anybody here using or had actual experience of using Evans NPG+ coolant? I was reading another thread about whether to use distilled water or not and remembered that I had planned on using Evans NPG+ because it seems to solve a variety of potential cooling system problems and seems like the way to go with an engine with rare and irreplaceable aluminum cylinder heads. Fuel temperatures tend to make a bigger difference than does the coolant. Unlike gas engines a diesel to a lesser extent does not rely on block temperatures to create efficient combustion conditions. ![]() You will not however get any improvement in fuel economy in a TDI simply by running a higher thermostat setting. G12 so far has proven to be one of the best coolants that I have ever seen on the market in terms of real world performance. G12 is a special formula different than Dex-Cool or other extended life coolants. In the TDI's that use the OEM G12 you will not find any cavitation marks, pitting, corrosion etc etc like you would have in the older "Green" "Blue" coolants. Something to consider is that the water pump will need to be replaced with every timing belt meaning that the coolant will need to be replaced. Considered it but the fact of the matter is the VW G12 Coolant works perfectly. ![]()
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